Wednesday, March 17, 2010

Eger

We had a three day weekend last weekend, so we took the bus to a town in Hungary called, Eger.  Many of the hungarians that we told where we were going replied that it is one of their favorite cities.


I have not traveled in Hungary much yet, but each time that I do I have noticed nuclear power plants which looks so strange to me now that Trojan has been gone for several years.

Eger has a long history of human habitation which actually goes back to the Stone Age.  The current city was founded in the 10th Century by the first Christian  king of Hungary, St. Stephen.  It is a site of interest to us for two reasons.  First of all there is a castle shell still standing which you can walk around (for free).  There is a famous story written by a Hungarian writer named Gardonye Geza about a siege of the castle by the Turks in 1552.  I have tried (unsuccessfully) to read it.  Now that we have been there I will make another attempt. Anyway, as the story goes, the Hungarians were defending their castle against attack by 80,000 Turk soldiers.  They numbered only about 2000 and that included women and children.  They were successful that time, but the Turks succeeded on their next attempt in 1596 and took over the town.  They ruled for 91 years converting the churches into mosques and erecting minarets.  One still stands and we paid our 250 forint (about $1.25) to climb the very narrow 97 steps to the top for a view of the city.  It sounds better than it actually was.  Both Jack and I experienced some claustrophobia in the tiny passageway and turns out the view wasn't any better than castle hill. As I breathlessly arrived at the top viewing point, I remember thinking, "What would happen if someone freaked out and could not take those stairs back down for fear of falling?" One man who was in the group ahead of us carried his son who was about 3 years old all the way up and back down again.  He must have been in great shape!

Okay, the other reason that Eger is famous is for the wine.  The region has been growing wine since the 10th century.  The wine tasting rooms were clustered along a hilly part of town where they had dug the tasting caves right into the hill.  They were small and not at all plush.  The visible wine storage was in these metal tanks which had spouts which had to be primed by someone sucking on a tube.  The really interesting part is that people can bring in plastic jugs and have them filled from these tanks with the wine of their choice.

My favorite Hungarian wine is call bikaver which is a blended red.  It's nickname is "Bull's Blood".  The story goes that prior to the first attack on the castle by the Turks the soldiers were fed well and given lots of wine which stained their beards.  The Turks were so amazed by the resistance to their attack that the rumor began that the soldiers were drinking wine which was mixed with bull's blood to give them strength.


We didn't taste anything that we liked well enough to shlup back on the bus however.

The bad news is that Jack left his camera on the bus from Budapest.  So, our pictures of Eger come from the Wikipedia.




2 comments:

  1. Sounds like a great time! I can't wait to take away some wine in a plastic bottle. Egri bikaver is my absolute favorite!

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  2. Eger! I am 90% sure I spent some time drinking wine there, too. I would have to double check my photo albums (which are at my Mom's house in San Diego), but everything about it sounds familiar. Sounds like a lovely trip.

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